Develop breakthrough and sustainable bio-based textile fibres

Expected Outcome:

Successful proposals will contribute to the updated EU Bioeconomy Strategy, the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, the Clean Industrial Deal, and the Ecodesign Sustainable Products Regulation. Indirect contribution is expected towards the objectives of the Horizon Europe Mission "Restore our Ocean and Waters by 2030" in particular to Obj 2: "Prevent and eliminate pollution of our oceans, seas and waters”.

Projects results are expected to contribute to the following expected outcomes:

• Wider availability of natural and/or man-made bio-based fibres meeting market requirements.
• Scalable production processes for novel man-made and/or modified natural fibres.
• Enhanced circularity and prevent microplastics release compared to benchmarks.

Scope:

Fossil-based synthetic textile fibre production has grown significantly, reaching 67% of the global market in 2023.^[1] Among bio-based fibres, cotton plays a prominent role as it is the second most produced fibre at global level; however, it bears serious environmental concerns due to its massive land use and water consumption; moreover, the EU holds a minor share of the global cotton production (around 2%) and it is expected to remain a net importer in the future. Novel sustainable sources of natural fibres require significant improvements in some steps of textile production such as retting/degumming, spinning, modification and treatment. Man-made (synthetic and semi-synthetic) bio-based fibres are also slightly increasing their current market share, however there is a need to improve their technical performances to meet the requirements of final textile applications.

Proposals under this topic should:

• Develop breakthrough processes to yield bio-based textile fibres from sustainably sourced biomass feedstock. Bio-based textile waste is eligible as feedstock. Bio-based man-made (synthetic and semi-synthetic) fibres and/or the extraction, refinement and functionalisation of natural fibres are in scope.
• Ensure compatibility with existing textile manufacturing processes and equipment to facilitate market penetration.
• Design the bio-based fibre(s) to improve specific technical requirements against state-of-the-art benchmarks, e.g., tenacity, flexibility, spinning quality, elasticity/plasticity, thermal resistance, flammability and durability. Test these properties according to existing standards/methods to assess the compatibility with end-products requirements.
• Design the bio-based textile fibres for sustainable end of life. Assess the actual feasibility of the targeted end of life option(s). Prevent release of microplastics and other harmful substances along the whole product life cycle.

In addition to the specific requirements applicable for the type of action, as described in section 2.2.3.1 of the CBE JU Annual Work Programme 2026^[2], proposals under this topic should:

• As part of the multi-actor approach (MAA), ensure adequate involvement of all key actors in the value chains relevant for this topic, including textiles manufacturers, feedstock suppliers, end users and/or consumers.
• Include a task to apply the SSbD framework, developed by the European Commission for the assessment of targeted textile fibres. For more information on the SSbD framework and criteria, refer to Safe and sustainable by design
• Ensure complementarities with past and ongoing R&I projects addressing similar challenges, including projects funded under Horizon 2020/Horizon Europe (under Cluster 6 and Cluster 4 of Horizon Europe, including the partnership ‘Textiles of the Future’) and BBI JU/CBE JU projects.

[1] HARMSEN, P., SKRIFVARS, M. and MAGNOLFI, V., Bio-based textiles in a sustainable and circular bioeconomy, BORZACCHIELLO, M.T. (editor), European Commission, Ispra, 2025, JRC140676.

[2] https://www.cbe.europa.eu/reference-documents